Absolutely Gorgeous Dubai

Look up from the lobby of the Jumeirah Emirates Towers hotel for a dizzying view of its 48 floors.

The driver of an abra, a traditional wooden boat that ferries passengers across Dubai Creek, takes a break. From sleepy trading port to global gateway in 25 years, the Middle East metropolis of Dubai has sprung up out of the desert sands. Once centered on bustling Dubai Creek, from where old dhows (boats) still sail to Iran, Dubai now sprawls south toward the United Arab Emirates’ capital, Abu Dhabi. While oil revenues fueled its early development, now trade and tourism power this city-state’s phenomenal growth rate. Travelers come for sun, sand, shopping, and a touch of the exotic, and Dubai delivers. While it might not have the ancient sites of Cairo or Damascus, Dubai just gets on with making history as one of the fastest growing cities in the world.

The traditional wind towers in the restored Bastakiya Quarter were designed as a household cooling system.

Behind modern apartment buildings, cranes rise from the construction site of the Burj Dubai Tower, slated to be the tallest building in the world.

Dubai’s skyscrapers backdrop a line of camel trainers returning from camel racing practice.

The Gold Suq is home to myriad shops with dazzling displays of gold jewelry; be prepared to bargain.

The wave-shaped Jumeirah Beach Hotel in Dubai has rooms that overlook the Persian Gulf.

Fishermen try their luck from the railings of the Dubai Marina, a huge new hotel and dining complex.

A guest at a mass wedding in Dubai peruses the thick program, which lists 47 couples.

On bustling Dubai Creek, traditional abras (water taxis) still ferry locals and ships carry trade goods.

Bastakiya Quarter
Tranquil turn-of-the-20th-century Persian neighborhood on Dubai Creek; labyrinthine lanes; restored courtyard residences with wind towers; art galleries, cafés, tiny museums, and boutique hotels. Tip: “Don’t miss XVA and Ave galleries’ shows of upcoming Arab and Iranian artists.”—Antonia Carver, co-editor, Bidoun magazine.

Burj Al Arab (Arabian Tower)
“Dubai’s own Eiffel Tower: futuristic, iconic, and the quintessential vacation photo op.”—Claire Malcolm, editor, Concierge magazine. Ostentatious “seven-star hotel;” dancing fountains; “underwater” restaurant. Tip: Book ahead for sunset cocktails at Skyview Bar. Jumeirah Beach Road, Jumeirah; tel. 971 4 301 7777. http://www.burj-al-arab.com/

Desert Safari
“Ride nature’s roller coaster then feast under the stars with shisha and belly dancing.”—Claire England, managing editor, Explorer Publishing based in Dubai. Dune driving, camel riding, sandboarding. Arabian Adventures; tel. 971 4 303 4888. http://www.arabian-adventures.com/

Dubai Creek
“Grab an abra for a trip down Dubai’s original lifeline where dhows unload cargo beneath sculptured skyscrapers.”—Claire England. Tip: Abras (water taxis) crisscross the creek, leaving when full. Hire one for sunset.

Dubai Museum
“The best way to comprehend Dubai’s meteoric transformation from desert settlement to Arabian megalopolis.”—Sarah Monaghan, author, DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 Dubai. Evocative quirky dioramas; archaeology, weapons, instruments, costumes inside an old fort. Al Fahidi Street, Bur Dubai; tel. 971 4 353 1862; fee. http://www.dubaitourism.ae/

Dubai Suqs
Bargain for gold, spices, perfume, and textiles at atmospheric creekside suqs. Tip: “Offer half what they ask, walk away if they don’t agree; they’ll call you back and drop their prices.”—Claire Turrell, editor, VIVA magazine.

Heritage House & Al Ahmadiya School
“Old-school style and courtyard calm offer shaded respite from Deira bustle.”—Claire Malcolm. Restored merchant’s residence and one of Dubai’s first schools. Al Ahmadiya Street, near Gold Souq, Deira; tel. 971 4 226 0286. http://www.dubaitourism.ae/

Jumeirah Mosque
“This forward-thinking tour offers an opportunity to understand Islam.”—Sarah Monaghan. Elegant, intricately detailed; only mosque in the country that non-Muslims can enter, enlightening guided visits. Jumeirah Beach Road, Jumeirah; tel. 971 4 226 0286. http://www.cultures.ae/

Madinat Jumeirah
Contemporary incarnation of mythical old Arabian city; opulent hotels; air-conditioned suq; myriad cafés, bars, restaurants; abras gliding on canals; mesmerizing vistas. Madinat Jumeirah, Jumeirah; tel. 971 4 366 8888. http://www.madinatjumeirah.com/

Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding
“A bite-sized introduction to local culture.”—Zoe Rawlins, editor, Visitor Magazine. Elegant old courtyard residence; meet Emiratis at a cultural breakfast. Bastakiya; tel. 971 4 353 6666. http://www.cultures.ae/

Ski Dubai
“Artificial piste action inside a megamall—only in Dubai!” —Claire Malcolm. Tip: Snow is best and crowds less in the morning. Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Road; tel. 971 4 409 4000; fee. http://www.skidxb.com/

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Dos And Don’ts
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Greetings:
“Dubai Is Home And Host To Visitors From Around The World And Is A Melting Pot Of Cultures, But The Arabic Greeting ‘Al-Salaam Alaykum’ (Peace Be With You) (The Reply Will Be ‘Wa Alaykum E-Salaam’/Peace Upon You) Is Always Welcome And Is A Great Icebreaker. Never Offer Your Hand To An Arab Woman Unless She Offers Hers First. Upon Entering An Arab Home It’s Customary To Remove Your Shoes—Make Sure Your Socks Are Clean.”

Clothing:
“Dubai’s Dress Code Is Liberal, But Dress Modestly Out Of Respect And Save The Beachwear For The Beach. On The Jumeirah Mosque Tour, Men Should Wear Trousers With A Shirt, And Ladies A Long Skirt Or Loose Trousers, Long-Sleeved Blouse, And Head Scarf. Slip-On Shoes Are Best As Shoes Are Removed Before Entering The Mosque. If You Don’t Have Appropriate Clothes, Don’t Worry, We Provide Sheylas (Head Scarves) And Abayas (A Long Cloak)."
Ceremony: “Emiratis Are Open-Minded, Tolerant, And Hospitable. Integral To That Hospitality Is The Coffee Ceremony. Always Accept The Tiny Cup In Your Right Hand—It’s Polite To Drink At Least Three—And After Finishing Gently Shake The Cup Side To Side; This Is A Signal That You’ve Finished."

Manners:
“At Meal Times Your Arab Hosts Will Be Generous With Portions, So Forget Calorie Counting! Be Prepared To Sit In The Traditional Manner (On The Floor); Women Should Wear A Long Skirt. Try Not To Sit So That The Soles Of Your Feet Are Presented To Another Person; It’s Impolite. Food Is Eaten With The Right Hand But You May Use Your Left To Drink.”

Smoking:
“If Here During Ramadan, The Holy Month Of Fasting, Remember Not To Smoke, Eat, Or Drink In Public From Sunrise To Sunset. Kids Are An Exception And Can Discreetly Drink And Eat As Usual. Hotels Keep Eateries Open For Non-Muslims, As Do Some Malls; Your Concierge Can Advise You.”